Help, My Dog is Vomiting

Vomiting in dogs is a very common occurrence and can arise from a wide variety of causes, from simple gastritis to complex diseases of other body systems. Not only is it very distressing for both the dog and owner, it also provides a challenge for the veterinarian. This article explains the multiple causes of vomiting in dogs, including adverse food reactions, and the range of treatment options available.

What is vomiting?

Vomiting is the expulsion of food, fluid or debris from the stomach or small intestine due to coordinated movements of the gastrointestinal, musculoskeletal and nervous systems. It is important to differentiate this from regurgitation, which is a passive process rather than a coordinated effort like vomiting.

Regurgitation is a sign of disease in the esophagus, such as obstructions (foreign bodies such as a stick, bone or toy, or a stricture), esophagitis (inflammation of the esophagus) or megaesophagus (dilatation of the esophagus due to weakening of the smooth muscle). The main difference between regurgitation and vomiting is that regurgitation is effortless, while vomiting is accompanied by strong abdominal contractions.

How can I tell vomiting and regurgitation apart?

Sometimes this is not easy to do. Generally speaking, if it happens immediately after eating it is more likely to be regurgitation (though vomiting can still occur then). If the content of the material expelled appears to be completely undigested food, this also supports regurgitation. If the presence of bile can be confirmed though, it is more likely to be vomiting.

Causes of vomiting

The most common causes of vomiting are dietary related, either through dietary indiscretion (e.g. overeating, eating overly rich or spoiled food) which causes acute (sudden) vomiting, or adverse food reactions (food allergies) which can cause chronic (long term and intermittent) vomiting.

However, there are a huge number of other causes arising from either the gastrointestinal system itself (stomach and small intestine) or secondary to disease elsewhere in the body (e.g. liver or kidney disease). Within the stomach, possible causes include:

1. Gastritis (inflammatory disease)

2. Stomach ulceration

3. Stomach cancer

4. Obstruction (foreign bodies, telescoping of intestine)

5. Hiatal hernia (part stomach herniating through the diaphragm)

Possible causes within the intestine include:

1. Infectious diseases (e.g. parvovirus)

2. Worms

3. Inflammatory bowel disease

4. Intestinal cancer

Secondary causes of vomiting that are due to disease elsewhere in the body include:

1. Pancreatitis (infection or inflammation of the pancreas)

2. Peritonitis (infection in the abdominal cavity)

3. Hepatitis (liver inflammation)

4. Kidney failure

5. Pyometra (infection of the uterus)

6. Hormonal deficiencies or excesses (e.g. Addisons disease, Diabetes Mellitus, Septicemia, Calcium imbalance)

Other potential causes that do not fit into the above categories are drug reactions (e.g. digoxin, chemotherapy drugs, NSAIDs) and neurological disorders.

Treatment of vomiting

Vomiting is a symptom, not a disease in itself. Whether or not treatment is appropriate depends upon the individual circumstances. If the dog is only vomiting occasionally, is bright and otherwise normal on examination, treatment is probably not necessary. Some dogs with sensitive digestive systems will vomit once or twice a month regardless of any treatment, and if they are otherwise well this should be ignored.

For acute vomiting cases, the first step should always be to starve the dog for 24 hours (while keeping plenty of water available ad lib). After the period of starvation, the dog should be offered small portions of a very bland food, such as chicken and boiled rice, for a few days. Meals should be fed as smaller portions several times a day, rather than one larger meal.

Though treating the symptom itself will often improve patient demeanor and comfort, it is no replacement for making a correct diagnosis of the underlying cause, and certain drugs can be harmful if given blindly (for example, giving metoclopromide to a dog with a gastric or intestinal obstruction). Certainly cases of acute and severe vomiting require immediate treatment, as dogs can become rapidly dehydrated, develop electrolyte imbalances and aspiration pneumonia otherwise.

Managing the vomiting dog

There are 2 goals when dealing with a vomiting dog:

1. Identify the underlying cause

2. Stop the vomiting in a safe and effective manner

In many cases, anti emetic therapy (the technical term for vomiting is emesis, and therefore drugs used to treat it are called anti emetics) is instigated immediately while the cause is being established.

A veterinarian will start by taking a full history, focusing especially on normal diet, recent medication, vaccination status and the description of the symptoms. He or she must first make sure that the dog is genuinely vomiting and not regurgitating, which has a completely different set of underlying causes. It is also important to get a graphic description of the material expelled, and whether it contained bile, fresh blood or what appears to be coffee granules (partly digested blood).

The next step is a full clinical examination, including carefully feeling the abdomen, taking the dogs rectal temperature and assessing the hydration status. Once this is completed, a veterinarian will have a slightly narrowed down list of differential diagnoses in mind. If the dog is not dehydrated, bright in demeanor, and both vital parameters and feeling the abdomen were normal, the veterinarian will often (and rightly so) make a presumptive diagnosis of gastritis, or gastroenteritis if diarrhea is present too, and prescribe antibiotics to combat the likely bacterial infection. The owner is then likely to be sent home with instructions to starve the dog for 24hrs and give bland food for a few days, alongside the antibiotics. The owner is instructed to monitor the dog closely, and return immediately if there are any signs of deterioration, or 2 to 3 days later for a routine check up.

If there are any findings in the clinical history or the physical examination that trigger concern, then further tests are necessary. The first of these is usually blood tests for hematology and biochemistry profiles. Urine and feces may also be analysed, the latter for either nasty bacteria or parasites. Additional laboratory tests may be required in certain circumstances, such as bile acid stimulation testing if liver dysfunction is suspected, or an ACTH stimulation test to look for adrenal disease.

The next stage of the work up involves imaging. The most useful is abdominal radiography (xrays), but ultrasonography and endoscopy can also be very important. Radiography and endoscopy both have to be carried out under general anesthesia, while ultrasonography can be performed conscious. If the imaging does not reveal the underlying cause then biopsies may be taken, either endoscopically guided or via exploratory surgery. Histopathology of these samples (studying the tissue microscopically) can give vital clues as to the cause, particularly by differentiating between inflammation and cancer.

The final diagnostic option is the therapeutic trial. If the dog gets better on the medication prescribed, then it must have been a certain type of disease that responds to that drug. By this rationale, wormers, antibiotics or an exclusion diet trial may be chosen.

Drugs used in the treatment of vomiting

1. Stomach protectants and antacids

These medications are useful when stomach ulceration is suspected. Examples include sucralfate (acts like a band aid over the ulcer), H2 antagonists (reduce acid production) and omeprazole (also reduces acidity).

2. Metoclopromide

This drug blocks a neurotransmitter in the brain called dopamine, which prevents activation of the vomiting centre in the brain (known as the Chemoreceptor Trigger Zone). It is only partially effective in doing this though, and has the additional effect of increasing forward motility of the gut. This means it must never be given to dogs that might have a stomach or intestinal obstruction. It can also cause mental changes such as hyperactivity and disorientation.

3. Phenothiazines (e.g. Acepromazine, ACP)

These are effective at blocking the dopamine receptors mentioned above, in addition to other receptors involved in the vomiting reflex. They are usually used when metoclopromide has failed, but also have undesirable side effects such as low blood pressure and sedation.

4. Antihistamines

Histamine receptors are also present in the Chemoreceptor Trigger Zone, the part of the brain that controls the vomiting reflex. Antihistamines are effective in blocking vomiting that is due to motion sickness, but are little use against other causes.

5. Domperidone

Domperidone has a similar action to metoclopromide in that it blocks dopamine receptors and secondarily blocks serotonin receptors, but it does not have the promotility effects of metoclopromide. However, side effects include vulval enlargement and possible effects on fertility.

6. Maropitant

This is a new drug that is a Neurokinin 1 (NK1) receptor antagonist. It can be given orally or by injection, and is extremely effective at stopping vomiting by working both on the vomiting centre in the brain and on the stomach itself. It is deemed so effective at stopping vomiting that veterinarians must be careful to properly investigate potentially dangerous underlying causes, that could be masked fatally by this drug.

Dr David Brooks is part of the online veterinary team at PetInsuranceExpert.co.uk - the complete UK pet insurance resource. Visit us today to find the right pet insurance for your pet

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Senior Dog Supplies - Which Ones Count?

There is a wide array of senior dog supplies than can help you make sure that your dog stays fit and healthy, which can not only help prevent the signs of old age, but will make your dog's inevitable aging process go smoothly and comfortably.

The most essential senior dog supplies are dog foods appropriate for senior dogs. Dogs tend to gain weight as they get older, just like their owners, and obesity in senior dogs is even more dangerous than it is in younger dogs. There all kinds of different senior dog foods, from formulas which help with healthy weight loss to formulas which provide aging dogs with the vitamins and nutrients they need as they get older. There are also combinations of the two, not to mention a vast array of other specialty formulas.

Water filters are another essential item of senior dog supplies. In general, older dogs are more susceptible to dehydration than younger dogs, which can cause a dry coat at the very least and possible kidney disease at the worst. In addition to being filtered, water that is kept room temperature and fresh is also great for aging dogs.

Too many underestimate the importance of tooth brushes and other hygiene tools when considering senior dog supplies. Anything that can clean a dog's teeth is important. By keeping your dog's teeth clean as it gets older, you decrease the risk of your pet getting any kind of periodontal disease, which itself can cause kidney disease, liver disease, and possible heart problems. There are doggy tooth brushes as well as dental wipes, but even certain dog bones work to clean a dog's teeth, so provided their diet can incorporate it, you can treat your dog while keeping its teeth healthy.

There are also medicinal supplies to consider. Regular visits to the vet are necessary, and your vet may put your pet on medication. But there are also over the counter pet medications you can buy. Always research possible side effects and such, of course, but there are medications to help with stiff and painful joints that are not arthritis related, as well as dry skin, dry coats, and other problems inherent in aging dogs, no matter what the breed. Just make sure that, whatever pet supplies you choose for your senior dog that has medicinal value, you always consult your dog's vet.

In many ways, senior dogs are as dependent on their owners as puppies to make sure that they get the proper care, and that proper care will add up to improved alertness and playfulness in the twilight years of your dog's life.

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Dog Litter Training - 5 Must Know Dog Litter Training Tips

Patience is the key to successful dog litter training. The task could easily be put upon professional dog trainers but just like any loving parent, it could almost be said that any responsible pet owner would see to it that his pet is well-adjusted and disciplined. Litter training is easier and more effective if started early among pups.

The very first step in dog litter training is of course choosing and purchasing a litter box, which will serve as the container for your pet's organic wastes. When selecting the perfect litter box, consider the size and how easy it would be to clean the litter box. Make sure it is light, has an opening wide enough but not too wide, and preferably, rounded edges.

Dogs defecate and urinate more often than cats. Unlike their feline counterparts, they do not clean after themselves. The litter box should have some sort of filler to make it easier for you to do the cleaning. It is common practice to put layers of newspapers or what we call "pee pads" beneath litter boxes. Commercial litter boxes usually have detachable bottoms so all the owner has to do is scoop out the littered part.

At first, closely follow your dog's whereabouts. You could set up his surroundings in such a way that he has limited space to roam about. Make his personal comfort room easily accessible and soon enough, you would not have to instruct him to go there anymore.

A good indication that your pet has to "go" is that it keeps sniffing while going around in circles. Come up with a special command like "Use the box" and use it repeatedly to point out the proper place for the dog to do his business.

Give your pet rewards and praise when he successfully uses the litter box. However, it is not a dvisable to punish him when he does not. This might make matters worse and even encourage hostile behavior towards you and other human beings. Giving him proper shock when you catch him defecating at the wrong place should make him stop. Send him directly to his litter box.

Be consistent where you position the litter box to familiarize your pet. This way, he knows where to go when he needs to pee or poo. Always keep cleaning materials on hand to avoid the waste products from being scattered all over the place.

It would also help not to clean the litter box thoroughly. Besides the fact that dogs might develop aversion towards detergent smells, they would also be more comfortable using litter boxes if they detect a slight scent of their urine or feces in it.

As mentioned earlier, patience pays off in giving your dog the proper litter box training. Once success is achieved, it is beneficial in the long term for both you and your pets. Litter boxes could even be taken on trips. A disciplined dog gains better acceptance from his master and other human beings, in turn, giving them higher self-esteem and a healthier life.

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Designer Dog Collars

There was a time when no one had ever heard of 'pet fashion'. Who knew what designer dog beds, designer dog clothes, or designer collars were? In today's world, after numerous studies, testimonials and the like, it has been proven that having a pet, particularly one of the dog variety, is conducive to all around better heath and welfare.

With the ever increasing importance put on one's pet, dog owners in particular, are always on the hunt for the latest in dog design ware- this includes the dog collar.

Most everyone has heard of fashion week in New York city; if you haven't, it's one of the most anticipated weeks of the year where all major clothes designers parade their latest wares. Makes perfect sense, right? There is a need after all, to know what will be 'hot' for next season. What if I told you that for the last three years, New York City has hosted pet fashion week? Where over a period of two days, all the latest in "poochie couture" is showcased? One gets to see what all the rage in doggie clothes, collars, leashes, and products (feeding bowls, carriers, to name a few) are.

Don't kid yourself into thinking that by buying the very popular designer dog collar, your dog will suddenly develop superhero power and run off and save the planet. Designer dog collars are no different than any other dog collar (except the purposeful chain collar). They are generally a piece of material that fits around your dog's neck like all other collars on the market. And, like all other previous nondescript dog collars, its function is to hold tags for identification (and possible medication alerts) and control (both manually and with the leash) your dog.

Some would argue that designer collars are a complete waste of money and a narcissistic, silly indulgence in your dog. However, for those that hold their dogs in the highest esteem and treat them like members of the family, they don't think designer collars are absurd at all. If dog fashion is your thing, it's probably the least expensive way to treat [yourself] and your dog without breaking the bank- though, if that's the way you really want to go, you can purchase a Louis Vuitton collar for hundreds of dollars.

For quality products at cheap prices, try petsdirect.co.uk for dog collars and designer dog collars.

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Searching For Cheap Dog Training Collars

Cheap Dog training collars are not so simple as they seem. There are many different types of dog collars available in the market to suit different functions and needs. They are usually made from nylon and leather. They may be solid in color, patterned, have beads, jewels, or lights. Dog collars are available in an extremely large variety. They are specifically designed for different breeds to ensure their strength and functionality.

Dog collars are meant to control and prevent escape, cat collars are designed to enable escape. They are mainly used for controlling dogs and dog training purposes. If all you want is a dog collar that allows you to attach a dog leash and a dog tag, normal dog collars will do the job. Dog collars are one way to make your dog stand out in the crowd. Why not decorate your dog with a designer dog collar and make a unique statement?

Measure your dog's neck and add one inch. For proper fit, adjust the metal slide to allow two fingers between the collar and the dog's neck. Measure around your pets neck snuggly with your 2 fingers inside the measure. This should give you just the right size.

Leather dog collars today come in a big variety of colors. Not just the plain black and brown. Leather collars also tend to hold the smell of the oils from the hunting dog?s coats. The smell can become offensive over time.

Don't skimp on a cheap dog training collar, you will regret it when you can't get your dog to listen! They are a vital part of training.

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Dog Obedience and House Training

The first thing that dogs need is a respect for your authority and leadership. One of the ways dogs react to weak leadership is to get out in front and pull vigorously, usually with the human in tow. When the dog is pulling, the dog is the leader.

In a healthy relationship, you must first accept the principle that you have to be the leader. A relationship with a dog is not democratic: you have to be in charge, meaning you know far better than your dog does what is in its best interest.

Apart from a general understanding of how to begin teaching obedience, an essential element of teaching your dog how to heel is the leash correction. It is imperative that you learn how to pop the leash correctly, and that this becomes reflexive. Practice is the only way you'll master this. What follows are some important footnotes.

Go back and forth as necessary, popping the leash and reversing directions as needed. Thus, the sequence is as follows:

1. letting the dog get out in front

2. when the dog begins to forge, give a leash pop as you say "NO!"

3. reverse directions 180 degrees and start walking in the other direction

4. repeat this, going back and forth, until the dog starts to avoid the leash corrections and pay attention

5. As the dog goes into the heel position, praise it warmly.

As for breaking the dog's spirit, training is intended to foster exactly the opposite. Good training brings out the best in the dog, which is one of the reasons why I so emphasize praise in this method. Praise that is sincere and earned builds up the relationship between you and your dog. It is entirely positive and strengthens the bond.

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How to Clean Dog Urine

Your dog will be lured back to a spot that smells of urine and feces. So a quick and thorough clean up of any accidents is essential to fast housebreaking. Here are some pointers for how to clean dog urine:

1. Put dogs out frequently, especially puppies.

I know it can be tiresome but you will save yourself a lot of time and effort. Remember, every time the puppy eats, sleeps or plays it's gonna have to go outside. Also give the dog/puppy lots and lots of praise for doing it's business where it's supposed to.

2. Be stern and consistent.

It's confusing for a dog if it only gets scolded sometimes for peeing on the floor. The lesson will be learned much faster if the pooch is scolded for every mess you find. Just don't forget to give Poochy some lovin' after about 15 minutes or so after the scolding.

3. If you can't be with the dog, keep it on hard floors.

For many people, this means barring the pooch in the kitchen or foyer with a baby gate. Wee-Wee Pads should also be left with the dog. These are small absorbant mats made with an attractant that dogs like to whizz on.

4. Find the dog urine with a black light.

Many pet stores and online vendors carry hand held black lights for just this purpose. Just turn out the lights and systematically search for the bright glow of urine. After all, cleaning dog urine is much harder if you can't find it.

5. Make a poultice.

For fresh urine: Patience is the key. For carpet with pad under it, it is important to remove the urine from the carpet as well as the pad. If the spot has been wet for more than 10 minutes or so the pad will have been affected too. You will need fresh cool water, thick cotton towels and some sort of weight, 5 to 10 pounds. Weights can be books, boards, steel workout plates, etc.

6. Use the principles of capillary action to remove the urine from the carpet and pad.

If done properly this will always work, it's physics. Start by placing the a folded towel that is larger than the spot on top of the spot. Place a flat board on top of the towel and place a weight on the board. The board is there to distribute the weight evenly on the towel, if you don't have a board place just a weight on the towel but make sure that the towel is thick enough that the urine will not wick up into the top of the towel and contact the weight. The towel should remain on the spot for at least 10 minutes. Do not pick the towel up at any time during the process.

7. Pick up the first towel and get a clean one ready.

Fold it the same way as the first. Pour some clean water on the spot, working from the edges of the spot to the center of the spot so that you don't spread the urine, the water spot will be just a little larger than the urine spot. Allow the water to work it's way into the carpet. It won't take long, 30 seconds to a minute. Place a clean folded towel on top of the water spot and put the weight back on top. This time wait at least 30 minutes for the urine to work up into the towel. Do not disturb the towel or the wicking action will be compromised. Lastly repeat this whole process again using 1 part water to 1 part white vinegar and let the towel and weight sit overnight. Pull up in the morning and let dry. There should be no smell when the carpet is dry.

8. Launder the towels well.

Keep old clean towels around the house for this.

9. Hire a professional for any large problem areas.

If you wish to attempt this yourself consider this. The affected area should be small, no more than a foot in diameter. Anything larger and you should hire a professional. It can be expensive so weigh the cost of the service against replacement cost and know that the odor can be dealt with but the stains will be permanent. Also there are several ways to go about doing this. The execution is identical to the first section but the chemistry will be different.

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I researched the internet and came across SitStayFetch [http://www.dogtrainingpalace.info/], which I quickly downloaded, printed and read in one evening. Now Sumo, my pup, is doing great! At only 5 months old he sits, lies down, heals, stays, and even comes most of the time. I can not expect too much at his age but he is getting better everyday. I strongly recommend it to every dog owner out there. Here is the link: www.dogtrainingpalace.info [http://www.dogtrainingpalace.info/]

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4 Steps to Quickly Leash Train Your Puppy!

1. When is the best time to leash train your puppy?

Now! The sooner you start, the sooner your puppy will be able to safely walk with you outside in a predictable, controlled manner. This isn't always an easy task but very well worth the effort! puppies are easily over whelmed and may initially be afraid of a new collar and leash. With patience and a loving manner, you will be able to help your puppy overcome his initial fear.

2. What kind of collar and leash should I buy?

Start by buying your puppy a lightweight collar (no choke collars!) complete with an id tag, a lightweight leash, and some healthy treats. Begin by putting the collar snuggly but not tightly around your puppy's neck. Be prepared - he won't like it at first! He'll paw at the collar, shake his head and roll around hoping to shake it off. It's important not to laugh at him (this will only encourage him to keep doing it) or scold him either. Hopefully your puppy will forget about his new collar after a few minutes.

3. What is the first step in leash training?

Congratulations! Give your puppy a treat once he has accepted wearing his collar. The next step is to attach his leash. Just attach it and let him walk around the room getting used to the feel of it. After 2 minutes, take the leash off and reward your puppy. Wait 15 minutes and attach the leash again, once more letting him just walk around getting used to the feel of wearing a leash. After a few minutes, take the leash off again. Keep repeating this process until your puppy is used to wearing his leash. Remember: attach, walk around the room, remove, reward with a treat, repeat. Tip: if you attach his leash to his collar at mealtimes, your puppy will associate his leash with a positive experience.

Once your puppy has accepted wearing his leash, pick up the other end. Just let him lead you around indoors. Let him think that this is a fun game as he leads you around indoors. Keep it fun and make sure that you don't let him be in a position where he wants to pull or strain against the leash. Do everything to make this a positive experience for your puppy. Praise him with your words and treats when you 'catch him' doing something right (if he happens to walk over to you for attention, rather than straining against his leash, praise him!). Tip: limit your 'indoor leash walks' to 5 or 10 minutes, several times a day if possible.

4. When is it safe to venture outdoors?

When you and your puppy are feeling comfortable with your 'indoor leash walks', it's time to venture outside! Start with short walks in low traffic areas where there are minimal distractions (like other dogs). Slowly, gradually, widen the area where you and your puppy walk.

Once your puppy has mastered walking on the leash outdoors, it's a great time to teach him how to go up and down stairs. Start by sitting on the bottom step of a short flight of stairs. Go up one step and encourage your puppy to join you. If he follows you, lavish him with lots of praise and a treat. Continue going up one step at a time with more praise and treats for each step. Do the same when coming back down the stairs. Tip: Don't punish your puppy if he's not ready to climb the stairs and never try to force him. If he's not ready, try again in a few days. Patience is the key.

Whew! Congratulate your puppy and yourself! You've mastered teaching your puppy to walk on a leash AND go up the stairs! Leash training your puppy can be time consuming but is absolutely necessary for his safety.

BJ Gabriel is a successful Webmaster and publisher of DogTraining4Lovers.com [http://www.dogtraining4lovers.com]. BJ provides free Dog Training information in a free Dog Lovers Newsletter [http://www.dogtraining4lovers.com/dogloversnews.html] to help you have the happiest, healthiest and most well-behaved dog on the planet!

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Dog Years - How Old is My Dog?

How old is your dog in dog years? If he is 15 years old, does that mean he is 105? Based on the idea that a dog ages seven years for every regular calendar year, that's right. The problem with that is that is not accurate. In fact, there is no real set standard for how many years a dog ages because as the dog gets older, the ratio for how old he gets changes. The idea may help you try to estimate based on your dog's developmental skills how old they are in their middle ages, but overall it doesn't make sense.

The concept of dog years is a way for us to relate how your old your dog is in relation to people years. Based on the 7-year scale, a 5-year old dog may be about 35 years old in people years. They could be developing similar aging that a 35-year old person experiences, so that can be considered accurate. Using the same scale, a dog that is a year and a half is about 10-years old. The problem behind that is while most dogs at that age are fully developed to reproduce, most 10-year old boys and girls are not.

Is there an easy way to find out how old your dog is? Yes and no. There isn't a set standard that can give you one definitive answer. One chart will tell you your 12-month old dog is 15-years old in people years, while another will say the same 12-month old dog is only 10.5-years old. A 15-year old dog is 76-years old according to one chart, while another chart says in relation that the dog is really in his late 80s.

So, how old is your dog? The best way to really understand is to talk with your local veterinarian. Each dog, like people, ages differently. A 35-year old man may find himself one morning losing all his hair, while a 64-year old man may still have every flowing lock he's ever had. Dogs are the same way. Perhaps the dog is sick, so he aged quicker. Or his upbringing on certain foods or training has added more life. The different breeds of dogs are also a factor to consider. But the idea that a dog is 7 dog years for every 1 people year is not a reliable standard.

Sherry Harris is the author of a wide range of dog topics including, but not limited to: puppy training, dog grooming, pet travel, pet insurance, dog training, pet food, house training, dog breeds and dog allergies. For hundreds more free dog articles visit http://www.DogStyleNetwork.com Hope you enjoyed the article topic Dog Years. Remember you can spoil your dog no matter what age they are. We are online 24/7, so come visit us at your convenience!

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Pet Food Labels

With more recalls daily it seems people are taking great risks in buying dog food or cat food for their pets if do not know what they are buying. It is a wonder that we can chose any product on the market today, that is not tainted or treated in some way.

As we have seen in the last 20 years the decline in the health of pets worldwide and the rise of pet diseases such as cancer, diabetes, asthma, and damaged immune systems rendering them more susceptible to illness. If this seems scary to you, it is because it is a real minefield, trying to find something healthy to feed your dog. Many pet owners are resorting to making home cooked meals for their dogs, or buying selective truly organic pet foods, which are clearly defined by "what is not in it". Some are choosing organic only raw dog food diets.

Today, after six months of a massive recall of pet foods with the list growing longer each day and the number of pet deaths climbing, we have to look closely at the label of what we buy for our pets more than ever. All the slick advertising and wonderfully colorful packages with pictures of healthy dogs, jumping in mid air over fences in a meadow, can hide the actual ingredients. In addition, recommendations from Veterinarians do not ensure your dog is getting wholesome, unaltered real food. Many Veterinarians recommended dog and cat foods were on the Recall Lists, although they gained the financial benefits of these higher priced products.

The following is a look at "What Not To Buy" in a pet food, and reverse the decision making process to make it easier to buy dog food.

Meat By-Products:

What do they mean by meat by products? Well, is not really meat, as you know it; however, they call it meat by-products because there are parts of the cow that comes from the slaughterhouse - it is what they throw away.

It is a very gruesome list, which includes: Cow hooves, diseased tissues, such as cancerous tumors, intestines, horns, dead carcasses all derived from Class 4-D sources. These Class 4-D sources are included in pet foods, from dead, dying, diseased or disabled cattle, hence the name four D, which is rotted, diseased meats. They are denatured, which is a chemical process that makes them "unfit for human use" by treating carcasses with: fuel oils, citronella, grain alcohol and kerosene, which were are all approved by the US Department of Agriculture. These are all included in the term "protein" in pet foods, but of course, you will not see "D-4" on the label.

Chicken By-Products:

This again cannot be classified as chicken as you and I would know it. It is similar to the beef by products, only beaks, feathers, diseased chicken's entrails and carcasses, which is unfit for dog consumption.

Dyes and Coloring:

The same dyes used in the meat supply in the US or Canada for human use, is also added to pet foods. These dyes contain carcinogens that cause cancer.
Why are they added to pet foods? To make to dog food look more appealing to the eye of the purchaser. It does not really work on my dog, she will not eat it. Obviously red dye # 3 used in beef, is not a healthy additive.

Chemical Preservatives:

These are chemicals such as BHT, Butylated Hydroxytoluene- or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, and the rule of thumb is, "If you can not pronounce it, you do not want it in your pet's food". They are added to extend shelf life but are associated with liver and kidney diseases.

Fillers:

To create more volume, similar to just adding water, sawdust, chicken beaks, animal parts are added to the pet food mix. You can also find hair, ears, fat and diseased organs.

Artificial Flavors:

Flavor additives are produced through a process of adding these chemicals to animal tissue that is to make dead meat tastier and better for your dog.

Steroids and Antibiotics:

Eating products treated with steroids and antibiotics as are cattle raised on beef farms, destroys the immune system over time. Proper nutrition is by definition a process whereby we ingest food to improve health and support health, not to destroy it.

Wheat and Corn:

These ingredients can cause allergies in pets, and are hard to digest, as dogs do not chew much of their food. Grains have been added to pet foods to provide again low-cost filler, which also binds together other ingredients.
Of course, it is understood that melamine and rat poison offer no nutritional value either.

Melamine:

Melamine is not high on my list of must haves, for my dog's diet. It makes great plastic counter tops and other plastic products but not good dog food.

Rat poison also is not what you need to feed your dog, even if you were to throw in some omega 3's or some fiber filler, it does not improve the nutritional quality of pet food.

However, if you see these ingredients listed here on the label of your pet food, you may make better choices with healthier pet foods that do not contain these words on the label. Its better to get an ideal of where things come from before you buy them these days.

Teri Salvador operates a blog all about dog health and issues. Subscribe to the "Doggin Newsletter". You will not receive this information anywhere else with up to the minute news on dogs, health, products, food, and supplies. A surprise free gift to new subscribers, coming contest and for more information visit:
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Air Filled Dog Bed

If you are travelling and have your pet dog go with you, then you need an air filled dog bed. The air filled dog bed is ideal for travelling with your dog since this one is portable and deflates and inflates in less than a minute. It is very ideal and comfortable for your favourite pet. These types of bed are advertised all over the internet and some brand name ones and others are just your ordinary ones.

I have seen quite a bit of the advertised air filled dog beds and the choice is yours. Some of them come in coil spring system that contours to your pet's body for better support thereby creating a mattress like feeling. Every pet dog would love that cosiness feeling of these air filled dog bed. These are probably constructed with tough polyoxford and cozy fleece and come with a washable cover.

There are also other dog beds that come in the form of a bag. Some of these types of air filled dog bed or bags are called travel den. It is also ideal for carrying your dog's snacks and travel accessosories. When taking your dog with you for your daily walks, do not forget to bring with you your dog bed. An air filled dog bed comes in different shapes, sizes and forms. Some can be dog beds and some can be dog bags at the same time. You just need to unzip it and voila, your pet dog has a sleeping bed.

This bags and beds for your favourite pets and dogs come in very handy. All you have to do is search for them in the internet and you can find an abundance of it. Whether you are looking for designer ones or just plain cheap and simple ones you will find what you are looking for.

Imagine the easiness of having an easy to convert accessories for your pet wherever you go. Like once you arrive at your destination, just unpacked and voila, the dog begs becomes your dog bed. That would eliminate the stress of finding stuff for your pet to be comfortable. If you love and care about your favourite pet or dog, a small investment on an air filled dog bed may be worth it. Some comes in a washable covers so no problem when they become stinky or soiled.

The best thing when you travel with your pet dogs in tow is to have a handy dog bed or dog bag. Finding one of these is very easy nowadays. With the advancements in technology you can simply go inline and search for the keywords of whatever you are looking for and voila! There is plenty to choose from. You can even order online and get it delivered to your front door. And do not worry cause most orders online are very much secured.

Ordering will not be your biggest problem but choosing which one you would like to have for your lovely pet dog. Some of these are very much fancy and colourful and comes in with lots of cozy features. But always take the time to assess which one is best for you and your pets.

When it comes to dog beds and especially for travellers, it is highly recommended that an air filled dog bed would be your best option. But at the end of the day it wills always your decision as you are the one that deals and cares for it.

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Indestructible Dog Toys - Fact Or Fiction?

Several years ago, we owned a Dalmatian that went through normal dog toys faster than rain water through a down spout. We would buy him toys and buy him toys but they never seemed to last much more than a month. In some cases they would be gone in a week.

This got me into what's called indestructible - or tough dog toys - capable of keeping your pooch happy and gnawing away for months.

What I eventually discovered is that, to be honest, no dog toy is completely indestructible except maybe one made out of cast iron - assuming your dog would be happy with a cast iron chew toy. The fact is aggressive chewers like our Dalmatian will eventually chew up even the toughest of toys.

However, "indestructible" dog toys are better than standard ones simply because they end up costing you less because they last so much longer.

Here are the costs of three typical tough dog toys:

Stone Bone Durable Toy -- $12.95

Hurley Indestructible Toy -- $8.99

Kong Original Red Tuffy -- $8.99 for the large size

While that may seem a bit on the high side vs. toys that can cost $2.00 or less, these chew toys are really a bargain when you consider how long one will last versus cheap plush toys.

What to look for in a tough dog toy

Round dog toys are better than flat ones because it's just more difficult for a dog to destroy a round one than a flat one. Second, look for a toy made out of polyethylene as this tends to be stronger and harder to destroy - even by strong dogs such as our Dalmatian or a German Shepard. Also, make sure it won't splinter or fall apart and cut the dog's mouth or get swallowed and cause a gastric obstruction

Third, consider what your dog thinks is fun. Does it like to play tug-a-war or does it like to fetch things? If so, look for a toy that's chewable but also easy to throw. If your dog likes the water, get a toy that will float. On the other hand, if your dog likes to just lay around and chew, then the toy's durability should be your number one priority.

Also, the toy shouldn't be so small your dog could swallow it but not so big he or she can't handle it. You might also ask yourself how easy it would be to clean or wash.

If your dog is big into chewing, like our Dalmatian, you should consider a rubber toy like the Kong or the Nylabone or the Hurley Indestructible Dog Toy. While these toys are not truly indestructible, they will keep your dog chewing happily for many months.

What not to give your aggressive chewer

If your dog is a heavy chewer, you should stay away from stuffed dog toys or rope toys. These will eventually come apart and your dog could end up swallowing loose bits of rope, stuffing or even plastic eyes. And believe me, some dogs will swallow just about anything. Our Dalmatian once swallowed one of my wife's knee-high stockings and it plugged him up like a cork in a bottle. It cost us more than $500 to get him "unstuck."

Finally, be sure to check the dog toys from time to time for signs of wear. If the toy is looking frayed or seems ready to fall apart, just throw it away. You might also remember to rotate the dog toys from time to time to keep your dog interested.

Douglas Hanna is a free lance writer who has written articles on a wide variety of topics including dog heartworm and heartworm symptoms

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You Can House Train Your Puppy Fast

Once you get a new dog, you may want to start training it quickly. Dogs are excitable by nature especially if they're in a new environment. These may lead to unforeseen accidents which may soil your carpet or rug. A dog's mess is not a pretty sight nor is it pleasant to the nose. In order to prevent these accidents, it is important to housebreak a dog, the earlier the better.

Housebreaking Your Dog is one of the necessary steps in Dog Training. This is because owning a dog which is not housebroken is unhygienic to a person and his/her family. One of the things that should be remembered in order to housebreak dogs is to bring the dog outside immediately after meals are fed since this is the usual time wherein dogs feel the need to relieve themselves. Another thing to do is to watch out for signs that it is almost that "certain" time. Some dogs circle around a particular place before relieving themselves. If you see your dog doing that particular action then it is time to take the dog outside.

It is also important to catch them in the act if they're in the process of urinating or the like. Saying a simple "No" is enough especially if it is done with firmness in your voice. Dogs respond to human emotions. When they sense that firmness in a person's voice, especially if the owner says "No" repeatedly, then the dog will know that what it is about to do is something the owner disapproves of. The owner should quickly take the dog outside. Once the dog is done relieving themselves outside of the house, the owner should praise the dog so that the dog will know that it is the correct thing to do.

It is important to understand your dog, the same way that it tries to understand what his/her owner is feeling as of the moment. Training dogs requires patience, care, and understanding. Sooner or later, the dog will understand that it is not okay to relieve him/herself inside the house. Once they understand, they'll be barking to be brought outside once they feel the need to do so.

Learn how to train your dog quickly. Dogs will train you if you don't train them first. Learn how to effectively train dog and how to interact with your pets. Don't own a bad dog that no one wants around Easy Dog Training website has great tips on how to prevent and break bad habits that your dog may have.

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